Lao wai

One of the more interesting aspects of being here is the reaction we draw from the locals. It's not that they've never seen a Westerner. But we are in Western China, far away from the throbbing pulse of Shanghai or Beijing, and we are an unusual enough as to evoke a reaction. Usually it is just a prolonged stare, I mean a really prolonged stare. But children are much less shy about their reaction, and it is not unusual to come across a group of children and hear the response "lao wai, lao wai," which literally means "old foreigner."

This is on my mind right now because I've just returned from my evening walk wth Mr and Mrs Z. So far they have been religious about it, heading out every night after supper. But tonight more than other nights I seem to evoke this reaction.

It is not said only to the old or middle aged among us but is a reaction evoked by even the youngest PCVs (Peace Corps Volunteers). And it is not meant in a derogatory manner but is simply an honest response the kids have to an unusual situation. Chengdu is about the most metropolitan place we will be at and many volunteers will be sent to places where they may well be one of a few Westerners many have ever seen, certainly that the people will have any contact it. So this attention is good preparation. Usually we come across mostly college students on this campus, and they are actually pretty nonchalant. But tonight we seemed to run across several groups of children. In fact there a couple of times I did not catch it and Mr Z would laugh and say "Lao Wai, lao wai," and then point to the children.

Tonight I bumped into more of the students out with their Chinese families. A couple of them were at the pingpong tables being humiliated by six year olds at the common area with
baskeball courts and a couple of dozen ping pong tables. Heading back I saw one of the woman running through the crowds with her walkman and I shouted "lao wei, lao wei," and Mr Z really seemed to get a kick out of that.